Saturday, March 1, 2014

   The mechanical fuel pump on my Travco's Kohler generator went out and neither a mechanical replacement (A-241196) nor a repair kit (241197) is available. Electric replacements are available, but I want to keep it close to “stock.” I bought a used one on ebay, but the valves in it were bad. So I was in search for replacement parts and found that Airtex 572 (fits a 1966 Jeep C5 I4) has the parts needed to rebuild the innards of the pump. The top half is a direct replacement, but the base will need to be cannibalized for the diaphragm, spring and oil seal to be installed in your existing fuel pump. Note that if you don't care about having a priming lever, you can just move your old outer arm to the new unit.

   On the new 572 pump, remove the spring between the outer arm and body. Remove the 6 screws securing the two halves, holding the two halves together by hand until the last screw is removed.
Set the top half aside. Using a hammer and punch, drive-out the pin in the base enough to remove outer arm, but you may leave it in one side of the body. The outer arm should fall out, depress the diaphragm and pull the inner arm out with pliers. Remove the diaphragm, spring and oil seal (with washer) and set aside.

On the A-241196, remove the spring between the outer arm and body, note the orientation of the top to the base for later, remove the 6 screws securing the two halves, holding the two halves together by hand until the last screw is removed. Put the old top in old parts bin or metal recycling bin. Using a hammer and punch, drive-out the pin in the base enough to remove the outer arm, but you may leave it in one side of the body. The outer arm should fall out, depress the diaphragm and pull the inner arm out with pliers. Remove the diaphragm, spring and oil seal (with washer) and set aside.

   Using the A-241196 base (only because it has a priming lever, otherwise use the 572 base), I noticed the holes in the diaphragm did not line-up, so I used the A-241196 base as a template to drill new holes. Then insert the donor oil seal, washer & spring, placing diaphragm through with slot in shaft toward the opening for the arm. Depress the diaphragm and using pliers place the small arm in the slot in the diaphragm shaft (hook away from diaphragm). Turn it upside down and insert the outer arm over the inner arm and insert a temporary pin to hold it inline. Drive the pump pin back into place from the other side. Place the 572 top over the diaphragm and orient on the A-241196 base the same as originally oriented, insert the screws though the top, diaphragm and base, but only to tighten to 1 mm gap between the two halves. Depress the outer arm until the diaphragm is about even with the joint. Tighten snug, release the arm, then tighten all screws firmly. Install loosely into engine, and bump start switch until pressure is removed from outer arm to increase ease of installation. Reattach lines, check your oil in engine & air filter & check coolant. Prime the pump, start the genny and check for leaks! DONE!


Remove inner arm




Donor Parts

A-241196 parts

Donor parts stack-up on A-241196 base

Inner arm reinserted
Rebuilt Pump with new clear view fuel filter installed 

June Camping = Hot and Buggy

 I started this post last June and never finished it... So I am posting it now.

The other day I took a day off from working at my job, and traded it for a day of working on the Travco. On the previous camping trip it had fuel pump issues, so I wanted to look into eliminating those issues. After discovering that the electric fuel pump decided it didn't want to pump any more, I replaced it. While under the rig I happened to glance at the universal joint closest to the rear axle. It was then I discovered that one pair of bearing cups had failed and had worn through and looked like Pac-Man. Calling the local parts store with the chassis model actually got an in-stock hit for a $15 U-joint. So I replaced it, and on down the road we went!

....Hmm yeah, and it was hot and buggy as well.