Headlight Dimmer Switch Replacement

In the last post about camping at the cabin, I wrote that I had to hard-wire the headlights to low-beam only, just to get them to work. I have since replaced the switch with a GM type switch and placed the switch above the floor instead of through it as to keep it away from the elements of the front wheel well. The bolt-holes in the switch matched nicely to bolt to the floor. The switch is Car-Quest # 53-16973 and the new pigtail is CQ # S72. I assembled them together with dielectric grease as well.

Brake-Light Switch Replacement

As noted in the previous to-do post, I replaced the brake-light switch that had failed. I obtained the switch from Larry at Prairie Grove Auto (Car-Quest), part# ECC-53-54491. Please note that this switch was not a drop-in replacement. The original switch had one male and one female post-type connections. This one has two male posts, which was OK since I needed to replace the old connectors anyway. I also put dielectric grease on the posts and in the female connectors before assembly. Instead of being a plunger type switch attached to the brake pedal, it is a pressure switch attached to the brake master-cylinder output. Brake-line pressure actuates the switch to allow +12V DC to flow to the brake lights.

Heater/Defroster Fix

The Front Heater/Windshield Defroster kept blowing its panel-mount circuit breaker when it was on high for over a few minutes. A PO two-times back replaced all the fuses with push-push (push on/reset, push off) panel mount circuit breakers (very cool to replace the fuses as well as provide a way to switch-off any circuit). Almost all were 8 amp except the one for the heater/defroster of which I could not read any rating. I measured the actual current draw with the fan at Low Speed and High Speed and measured 2.8 amps and 5.5 amps respectively. So I changed the fuel pump breaker to 15 amp (I plan on upgrading the pump anyway) and moved the 8 amp that was there to the Defroster/Heater. I guess the old breaker was bad or might have been rated for 5 amps or less. I also shortened the wires going to the breaker as each wire was about 8 inches too long.

Finally a Replacement Fuel Cap

I have been in need of a fuel cap since I acquired the beast from the PO. Apparently, Prairie Grove Auto has had the cap I needed for some time. I asked him about it on the phone and Larry actually had a used cap in his junk bin. YIPPEE! A FREE CAP! Thanks to Larry. From what I understand it is called a "Saddle Tank Fuel Cap" So there is one more thing off the list of things to fix/do.

Winter To Do List

So, after the last camping trip I have started the following list of Winter to do items:
1) Winterize water system by pumping RV antifreeze into system and sink/shower drain traps. (DONE)
2) Replace brake-light switch. (DONE, see future post.)
3) Repair/replace headlight dimmer switch. (DONE, see future post. Now above the floor and not below, sticking through, where it was exposed to the elements.)
5) Install safety shut-off switch for fuel pump. oil-pressure or starter engaged = on, low pressure = off. Also include an override switch to shut-off pump for engine shut-down to prevent carb. bowl boil-over and also draining carb. bowl for long-term storage. (override-Done)
6) Install gutter over rear window and caulk to prevent further leaks in rear window.
7) Install fuel pressure regulator and set to 7psi. (purchased)
4) Install larger flow fuel pump to allow sustained pedal-to-the-floor "romps."
8) Patch hole in roof from ice storm, "properly" with fiberglass patch. (not duck tape)
9) Install new battery charger/AC inverter.
10) Replace spark plugs on side with different head. (purchased)
11) Make a new cover for the generator and install better sound insulation.
12) Install new wiper blades (requires new wiper arms?)
13) Replace gasket for fuel tank sending unit. (leaking when tank is full)
14) Replacement fuel tank cap. (DONE, see next post)
15) Repair RR brake wheel cyl, front diff. seal, LF brake hose
16) Replace LF mud flap.
17) Install time delay relay for furnace and clean-out burners or replace furnace with modern unit.
18) Replace door dead-bolt.
19) Custom-fit bubble foil as window shades. (some purchased)
20) Install upgraded circuit breaker for heater/defroster. (Done, see future post)
21) Install separate circuit breaker for fuel pump. (Done, see future post on defroster.)
22) Weld on another bolt to hold spare tire on rear mount.
3 of 22 complete (list continues to grow)

Future nice things to have:
1) Install speakers in a compartment that can be opened for "outdoor" speakers.
2) Install 2nd fuel tank and switch-over for more range.
3) Install seat-belts.
4) Install front receiver hitch for Hitch-haul or bike rack.
5) Add two receiver tubes for extra support of rear hitch-haul for 4-wheeler.
6) Sand primer off fiberglass.
7) Oil filter for genny. (determine if it has proper holes for hook-up)
8) Connect heater hoses to genny to heat cabin while it is running.
9) Install water heater that uses propane, electric and engine or genny heat.

Holy-cow! I had no idea I had such a long list of things to fix/replace!

Camping at the Cabin in October

It has been a while since I took the Travco out camping... April at the cabin and June at Devil's Den. I took a different route this time, taking Hwy 16 East to Hwy 21 South. I realized a savings of 20 miles taking that route and also because I was driving 45 - 55MPH on the Hwy vs. 65MPH on the interstate, I was able to get 7 MPG over the 180 miles round trip (previously I got 6 MPG on the trip to New Orleans).

I planned on leaving at 5pm on Friday, but was not ready until 6pm. With the engine fired-up and ready to go, I turned on the headlights and NOTHING! Troubleshooted it down to the connector at the dimmer switch not conducting power through. Since I would have to cut-off the old connector, I just cut and stripped the wires for low beam headlights, twisted and taped them together for the trip. OK, so now it is almost 7pm. Started to Fayetteville and fueled-up at Wally world. This was an unfamiliar road the last half of the trip, it was dark and I had no way to change to high-beams to see better.

I arrived at the cabin about 9:15pm and scouted-out the driveway for its condition. Not sure what caused it, but there were many trees down across the drive. So, I decided to park at the gas well for the night and tackle the trees in the morning, before the rest of the crew got there. It was a little cold that night, so I fired-up the furnace (original) and the burner worked fine, but the fan did not come on. I tracked it down to the temperature "disc" inside the furnace that tells the fan when to come on. So, I shut it off. To fix the problem in the future I am going to use a time delay relay, like on newer furnaces, to delay the fan on and fan off and tie it into the coil for the gas valve, so the fan comes on when the burner comes on. Ideally, with money, I would replace the furnace with something modern with forced combustion, as it is more efficient.

The gas well guy showed-up about 7:30am, I bet he was thinking WTF is that? Trey arrived around 8am, before I had all the drive clear, Durry arrived about 9am?

We rode our 4-wheelers and motorbike about 56 miles from lunch time to about 4. We fjord-ed the Mulberry river at Low Gap Springs road (D almost made it across w/o getting his boots wet!), stopped at the Oark Cafe, then found a new route back across the Mulberry with a bridge. On the way back we found a few waterfalls, this trip included many, many puddles for sure! Later that evening I checked the spring near the cabin, it was flowing very freely and was not clear, it was a little cloudy.

We had an OK fire that night, the wood was a little wet from all the rain we've had. (it still managed to melt the soles of my shoes...I threw them out today.) I gave Durry the movie pick and he went for SLINGBLADE as he had never seen it! Very funny, even after so many times. I wish I had Zombieland to show that night! BTW, the Travco works fairly well as a roof platform to get a better cellphone signal.

The drive back on Sunday was nice, I could actually see the fall colors by the road in the daylight!
I stopped at WM and got replacement fluids for the Travco and filled-up the gas tank to determine the fuel un-economy.

Until next time!

Luggage Rack and Steps pictures

Here are some pictures of the luggage rack while removed from the Travco, that will be reinstalled after I get all the primer sanded off (if that ever happens).





The side rails are made of aluminum, the middle ribs are made of stainless steel c-channel and the end rods are made of chromed steel. It was attached with 8 screws with a synthetic rubber gasket between it and the roof. Each rib has a rubber strip on the bottom to prevent damage to the roof. The side rails are are 87.5" long and 51.5" wide and about 4" tall (outside dims.). Usable space is 6' long by 47.25" wide (inside dims). I removed it when I got it from the PO as only 3 screws held it down, the others had no grip and were allowing water to enter.

The pictures that follow are of the folding steps that go to the roof. There are 5 steps with a handle at the top right similar if not the same as the ones beneath the windshields.







The fuel pressure regulator has arrived, I need to install it and a higher flow fuel pump to handle heavy throttle positions for more than about 5 seconds. Pics of that after install. I will need to remove the fuel filter on top of the motor, as it boils-off all the fuel in it on shut-down of the engine and is not needed now that there is a big filter before the electric fuel pump.