In the last post about camping at the cabin, I wrote that I had to hard-wire the headlights to low-beam only, just to get them to work. I have since replaced the switch with a GM type switch and placed the switch above the floor instead of through it as to keep it away from the elements of the front wheel well. The bolt-holes in the switch matched nicely to bolt to the floor. The switch is Car-Quest # 53-16973 and the new pigtail is CQ # S72. I assembled them together with dielectric grease as well.
As noted in the previous to-do post, I replaced the brake-light switch that had failed. I obtained the switch from Larry at Prairie Grove Auto (Car-Quest), part# ECC-53-54491. Please note that this switch was not a drop-in replacement. The original switch had one male and one female post-type connections. This one has two male posts, which was OK since I needed to replace the old connectors anyway. I also put dielectric grease on the posts and in the female connectors before assembly. Instead of being a plunger type switch attached to the brake pedal, it is a pressure switch attached to the brake master-cylinder output. Brake-line pressure actuates the switch to allow +12V DC to flow to the brake lights.
The Front Heater/Windshield Defroster kept blowing its panel-mount circuit breaker when it was on high for over a few minutes. A PO two-times back replaced all the fuses with push-push (push on/reset, push off) panel mount circuit breakers (very cool to replace the fuses as well as provide a way to switch-off any circuit). Almost all were 8 amp except the one for the heater/defroster of which I could not read any rating. I measured the actual current draw with the fan at Low Speed and High Speed and measured 2.8 amps and 5.5 amps respectively. So I changed the fuel pump breaker to 15 amp (I plan on upgrading the pump anyway) and moved the 8 amp that was there to the Defroster/Heater. I guess the old breaker was bad or might have been rated for 5 amps or less. I also shortened the wires going to the breaker as each wire was about 8 inches too long.
I have been in need of a fuel cap since I acquired the beast from the PO. Apparently, Prairie Grove Auto has had the cap I needed for some time. I asked him about it on the phone and Larry actually had a used cap in his junk bin. YIPPEE! A FREE CAP! Thanks to Larry. From what I understand it is called a "Saddle Tank Fuel Cap" So there is one more thing off the list of things to fix/do.
So, after the last camping trip I have started the following list of Winter to do items: 1) Winterize water system by pumping RV antifreeze into system and sink/shower drain traps. (DONE) 2) Replace brake-light switch. (DONE, see future post.) 3) Repair/replace headlight dimmer switch. (DONE, see future post. Now above the floor and not below, sticking through, where it was exposed to the elements.) 5) Install safety shut-off switch for fuel pump. oil-pressure or starter engaged = on, low pressure = off. Also include an override switch to shut-off pump for engine shut-down to prevent carb. bowl boil-over and also draining carb. bowl for long-term storage. (override-Done) 6) Install gutter over rear window and caulk to prevent further leaks in rear window. (Gutter purchased) 7) Install fuel pressure regulator and set to 7psi. (purchased) 4) Install larger flow fuel pump to allow sustained pedal-to-the-floor "romps." 8) Patch hole in roof from ice storm, "properly" with fiberglass patch. (not duck tape) 9) Install new battery charger/AC inverter. 10) Replace spark plugs on side with different head. (purchased) 11) Make a new cover for the generator and install better sound insulation. 12) Install new commercial wiper blades (DONE, see future post.) 13) Replace gasket for fuel tank sending unit. (leaking when tank is full) (purchased) 14) Replacement fuel tank cap. (DONE, see next post. ) 15) Repair RR brake wheel cyl, front diff. seal, LF brake hose 16) Replace LF mud flap. 17) Install time delay relay for furnace & clean-out burners OR replace furnace with modern unit. (DONE, see future post) 18) Replace door dead-bolt. 19) Custom-fit bubble foil as window shades. (some purchased) 20) Install upgraded circuit breaker for heater/defroster. (DONE, see future post) 21) Install separate circuit breaker for fuel pump. (DONE, see future post on defroster.) 22) Weld on another bolt to hold spare tire on rear mount. 23) Install tire covers for UV protection while parked. 24) Install reflective foam board where needed. (purchased) 7 of 24 complete 29% (list continues to grow)
Future nice things to have: 1) Install speakers in a compartment that can be opened for "outdoor" speakers. 2) Install 2nd fuel tank and switch-over for more range or genny time. 3) Install seat-belts. 4) Install front receiver hitch for Hitch-haul or bike rack. 5) Add two receiver tubes for extra support of rear hitch-haul for 4-wheeler. 6) Sand primer off fiberglass. 7) Oil filter for genny. (determine if it has proper holes for hook-up) 8) Connect heater hoses to genny to heat cabin while it is running. 9) Install water heater that uses propane, electric and engine or genny heat.
Holy-cow! I had no idea I had such a long list of things to fix/replace!
Owner of an Electronics Contract Manufacturing Company and a Renewable Energy/Energy Efficiency Company. I also provide roadside service for RVs. I am a libertarian and support the right to bear arms and support concealed carry.